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A recent study published by the Chicago Tribune revealed that a huge percentage of classic car owners are paying far too much for their insurance coverage. Why? Because they’re working with the wrong car insurance companies!

When you think about insuring your classic car, what’s the first thing you think of? For a huge percentage of first time classic car owners the answer to that is, your friendly neighborhood car insurance companies. Isn’t it? Many classic car owners are insuring their collectibles with the same insurance providers they’re using to protect their family sedan. What makes that a bad idea? There are some major differences between yesterday’s classics and antiques and today’s grocery getters, and those differences could be costing you thousands.

What would you say spends more time on the road, your carefully restored classic beauty or your ten year old, four door family sedan? Your family car, of course! The more time your car spends on the road (whether you’re driving to and from work, to and from family or to and from a hot night on the town) the more likely you are to be involved in an accident. The more likely you are to be involved in an accident the more likely you are have to file auto insurance claims.

And the more likely you are to have to file auto insurance claims the more likely you are to cost your car insurance company money.

What does that mean for you as a classic car owner? It means that auto insurance policies designed for regular commuter vehicles are designed for cars that are at a much higher risk than the gorgeous Mustang convertible sitting out in your garage! The average commuter car travels 15,000-30,000 miles per year. The average collectible travels only 2,000. Owners tend to be considerably more careful with their collector’s cars, both at home and out on the highways. That makes them an insurer’s dream.

If you’re insuring your collectible car under the same policy you have on your regular family car, you’re probably paying way too much. You’re insuring against risks that are unlikely to ever manifest, and because of that you’re spending money you could be spending elsewhere-like on your next rehab. That’s why it makes more sense to go looking for a company that specializes in collectible cars when you’re looking for someone to insure your classic care.

These companies usually have very strict guidelines about how you must take care of your car and how much time you’re allowed to spend out on the road, but most of these are common sense guidelines that you’re probably following anyway. More importantly, these policies are specifically designed for collectibles and therefore are able to give you high quality coverage at much lower auto insurance rates.

As much as 20% or more, says the Tribune.

You want your baby protected, but you want to protect your financial resources while you’re at it. If you’re still insuring your classic car with a regular car insurance policy it’s time to talk to your insurance agent to see if they can offer you a better deal. Both you and your car deserve it.

Mike McDonough is a National Account Representative with QuoteScout.com. For more information on buying car insurance for your classic car, visit them on the web at http://www.QuoteScout.com.

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With prices hitting the silly season about 18 months before every bubble was burst, the LAST thing you want to do is leave money on the table.

You would think with all the sources of information, it would be easy. After all, if you want to sell your house now, you can get comps from the MLS from any realtor.

Some sellers have not gotten reality and are trying to recoup losses by keeping prices high while others forced to fire sale their cars to cash buyers who can move fast.

There is not just one method in my opinion. In order to get the right range, you need to triangulate on a price using several data points.

Go to the traditional sources to get a ball park (many are listed below). I use the NADA guidelines for starters, and then check out Manheim-Gold and Hemmings.

Prepare for shock at times because the estimated prices can vary. For example, a recent search for a 1967 Pontiac GTO convertible, original, matching numbers, standard options ranged in Excellent condition from $44K to $99K! And Excellent did not mean #1, show quality where the car is never driven, just stored in a climate controlled environment.

Good condition was $28K to $54K. Again, quite a spread.

When I checked some of the listings (did not drill, just read the specs), many read the same, recent (within 2 to 3 year restoration), matching numbers, many original parts, complete documentation, etc. So, you would have to inspect the cars yourself to see who was blowing smoke. At least you have a data point.

Next, check as many classic auto dealers as possible to poll them for recent prices. Many list the SOLD on their website. If not, then call them and tell them what you are looking to buy. They have the pulse of the market and you will be able to zero in on a better sense of reality. Remember that a dealer will be high, maybe even 20-25 percent. So bank that information.

Another source is looking at recent car auction results. Sometimes hard to find, there is one site that is helpful is www.sportscarmarket.com. It’s a paid subscription site (we have no affiliate association). You can pay by the day, month or year ($99.00), so a small price to pay for great information.

Using these three resources should get you pretty close to what you will pay for your car. The next step is to thoroughly understand the valuation system for classic car cars so you know where “your car” fits, and consequently how much you have to pay. The rating system below is standard.

Excellent: The vehicle in perfect and near-mint condition, either completely restored or an original vehicle with little wear. This is NOT a #1 show quality car that is never driven.

Very Good: Solid vehicle with minor scratches or engine and other wear and tear. This car is near perfect and a great driver.

Good: The vehicle has repairable damages and still needs a little effort to restore. The car is a decent driver.

Fair: A vehicle that needs a lot of restoration work. If a car is not drivable because of engine, brake, or other mechanical failures, but has a solid exterior look, it will fall in this category.

Parts car: Not restorable and bought only for its reusable parts.

You may also see ratings such as Low Retail Value, Average Retail Value and High Retail Value. These basically line up to Good, Very Good and Excellent.

Lastly, don’t forget the many online clubs and forums. There is one thing great about classic car lovers, we all love to talk about our cars. There is a huge collective wisdom out there to tap into.

If you want someone to take the hassle out of finding the right car for the right value, then contact Your Dream Car Finders and discover how easy it is,

Handy Resources:
http://www.manheimgold.com/
http://www.nadaguides.com/
http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/priceguides.pgmake

Tim Leary is a serial car nut and likes nothing better to help someone find their life-long classic dream car. http://www.yourdreamcarfinder.com

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Classic cars for sale are big business these days. There is no shortage of unscrupulous people who will take your money and vanish!

To be a knowledgeable buyer, the biggest chunk of your time will be spent in what I call the homework or prep stage. Probably 70 percent of your time will be spent studying classic car sale information, researching, and consulting with trusted friends or experts as to the authenticity and details of the car. After you have done your homework, the rest is a simple buying transaction. The more prepared a buyer, the smoother and faster the transaction.

What this means is you will need to invest the necessary time and money to thoroughly research what you are buying. It is all about the preparation. The one thing that rings true is either you are going to spend the time or money to investigate your potential purchase or you hire an expert to handle the transaction for start to finish.

Three Tips to Prevent Classic Car Scams

1. Know What You Want to Purchase

The top details for clarity are knowing what you are looking for, how much you have to spend, and how far you are willing to travel. Buying a vintage classic or muscle car is an exercise in search and process of elimination. Think of yourself as a modern day Sherlock Holmes. There is no use in looking at a show car if you can realistically only afford a project car or a weekend cruiser.

Because the internet has made our world smaller, do not waste a buyer’s time if they live halfway across the country and you are only willing to buy locally.

Check the NADA price guide so you have a ballpark of what the car will cost depending on condition. If the deal is too good to be true, (Are you really going to buy a 1969 Camaro in great condition for $5000?) then it could be scam. If you contact the seller and they insist on wiring a deposit, then you will know for sure it is a scam. Guaranteed you will never see the cash again!

2. Research Your Vehicle

Buying a classic car has become serious business. Classic cars for sale are now selling for what I paid for my first house. Would you buy a house with out having a house inspection? Probably not. The same goes with buying a muscle car for sale. Do your research. Get as much information as you can about the make, model, and year, and options of the car. The more educated you are about the car, the better you can negotiate if needed. And it also indicates to the seller that you know what you are talking about.

The internet makes it easy to do research. Join a forum that is focused on the type of car you are looking to buy. I know serious car collectors who will not buy a car unless they bring in an expert or guru to look at it first. If it is good enough for them, it is probably an idea you may want to consider. There nothing wrong about not knowing everything about a car. You definitely want to avoid paying for what looks like a highly desirable car only to find out that it is a clone.

Many people have saved themselves thousands and even hundreds of thousands of dollars just by paying an expert to inspect and document a car. If the car is extremely desirable and rare, the old adage of you can pay me now, or you can pay me later applies. Either hire an expert, or talk with someone you trust who can help you look at the car. Online car forums and clubs are great resources for this type of information.

3) Make Sure All Your Questions Get Answered

Do not be afraid to ask questions. Having clarity gives you the confidence to make a buying decision. This serves many purposes. Before you physically look at the car, contact the seller and ask the important questions.

Here are a number of key questions to ask the seller even if the details are not mentioned in the ad (This can double check the seller’s credibility that they really do know the details about their car). I find asking questions in categories is useful in organizing the information.

Engine, Drive Train, Options

* What is original to the car? (Engine, transmission, differential)
* Drive train specs (hp, engine size, rear axle ratio, transmission type)
* Options – A/C PS, PB, Vinyl roof, trim packages
* How does it run?

Body and Interior

* Interior color and condition?
* Body panels original, any accidents, frame damage, paint and body panel condition?
* Currently inspected and roadworthy or project restoration car?
* Mileage and any known mechanical problems?

Title and Price

* Does the car have a “clean” title?
* What is the asking price or at least a ballpark figure

How does it look?

* Can you get detailed digital pictures? If so, get A LOT so you can see every detail.
* Send to experts or post on a forum for opinions. The seller may think the car is all original, but may not know. An expert can spot the obvious.

Logistics

* Will they allow you to bring in an expert, or independent third party to
inspect and verify the car (If not, RUN from the deal. Do not walk)?
* Is there a place locally where you could arrange to put the car up on
a lift and do a visual and physical inspection?

This may sound like a lot of work, but it is fundamental for a solid transaction where you get exactly what you want.

The best piece of advice I can offer is to remember you are in control of the
transaction. If there is something that does not feel right about the car or the seller or anything related to the transaction, let it go. This includes being pressured by a seller to make a quick decision. If a deal is going to work, it needs to be natural and a win-win situation for both parties. There is normally something fishy going on, if a seller starts to hard close a deal. There is no use in trying to force a deal to work from either party.

Your Dream Car Finder makes finding, authenticating and delivering your dream car easy!

Tim Leary is a serial car nut and likes nothing better to help someone find their life-long classic dream car. http://www.yourdreamcarfinder.com

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