State:

With prices hitting the silly season about 18 months before every bubble was burst, the LAST thing you want to do is leave money on the table.

You would think with all the sources of information, it would be easy. After all, if you want to sell your house now, you can get comps from the MLS from any realtor.

Some sellers have not gotten reality and are trying to recoup losses by keeping prices high while others forced to fire sale their cars to cash buyers who can move fast.

There is not just one method in my opinion. In order to get the right range, you need to triangulate on a price using several data points.

Go to the traditional sources to get a ball park (many are listed below). I use the NADA guidelines for starters, and then check out Manheim-Gold and Hemmings.

Prepare for shock at times because the estimated prices can vary. For example, a recent search for a 1967 Pontiac GTO convertible, original, matching numbers, standard options ranged in Excellent condition from $44K to $99K! And Excellent did not mean #1, show quality where the car is never driven, just stored in a climate controlled environment.

Good condition was $28K to $54K. Again, quite a spread.

When I checked some of the listings (did not drill, just read the specs), many read the same, recent (within 2 to 3 year restoration), matching numbers, many original parts, complete documentation, etc. So, you would have to inspect the cars yourself to see who was blowing smoke. At least you have a data point.

Next, check as many classic auto dealers as possible to poll them for recent prices. Many list the SOLD on their website. If not, then call them and tell them what you are looking to buy. They have the pulse of the market and you will be able to zero in on a better sense of reality. Remember that a dealer will be high, maybe even 20-25 percent. So bank that information.

Another source is looking at recent car auction results. Sometimes hard to find, there is one site that is helpful is www.sportscarmarket.com. It’s a paid subscription site (we have no affiliate association). You can pay by the day, month or year ($99.00), so a small price to pay for great information.

Using these three resources should get you pretty close to what you will pay for your car. The next step is to thoroughly understand the valuation system for classic car cars so you know where “your car” fits, and consequently how much you have to pay. The rating system below is standard.

Excellent: The vehicle in perfect and near-mint condition, either completely restored or an original vehicle with little wear. This is NOT a #1 show quality car that is never driven.

Very Good: Solid vehicle with minor scratches or engine and other wear and tear. This car is near perfect and a great driver.

Good: The vehicle has repairable damages and still needs a little effort to restore. The car is a decent driver.

Fair: A vehicle that needs a lot of restoration work. If a car is not drivable because of engine, brake, or other mechanical failures, but has a solid exterior look, it will fall in this category.

Parts car: Not restorable and bought only for its reusable parts.

You may also see ratings such as Low Retail Value, Average Retail Value and High Retail Value. These basically line up to Good, Very Good and Excellent.

Lastly, don’t forget the many online clubs and forums. There is one thing great about classic car lovers, we all love to talk about our cars. There is a huge collective wisdom out there to tap into.

If you want someone to take the hassle out of finding the right car for the right value, then contact Your Dream Car Finders and discover how easy it is,

Handy Resources:
http://www.manheimgold.com/
http://www.nadaguides.com/
http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/priceguides.pgmake

Tim Leary is a serial car nut and likes nothing better to help someone find their life-long classic dream car. http://www.yourdreamcarfinder.com

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Classic cars for sale are big business these days. There is no shortage of unscrupulous people who will take your money and vanish!

To be a knowledgeable buyer, the biggest chunk of your time will be spent in what I call the homework or prep stage. Probably 70 percent of your time will be spent studying classic car sale information, researching, and consulting with trusted friends or experts as to the authenticity and details of the car. After you have done your homework, the rest is a simple buying transaction. The more prepared a buyer, the smoother and faster the transaction.

What this means is you will need to invest the necessary time and money to thoroughly research what you are buying. It is all about the preparation. The one thing that rings true is either you are going to spend the time or money to investigate your potential purchase or you hire an expert to handle the transaction for start to finish.

Three Tips to Prevent Classic Car Scams

1. Know What You Want to Purchase

The top details for clarity are knowing what you are looking for, how much you have to spend, and how far you are willing to travel. Buying a vintage classic or muscle car is an exercise in search and process of elimination. Think of yourself as a modern day Sherlock Holmes. There is no use in looking at a show car if you can realistically only afford a project car or a weekend cruiser.

Because the internet has made our world smaller, do not waste a buyer’s time if they live halfway across the country and you are only willing to buy locally.

Check the NADA price guide so you have a ballpark of what the car will cost depending on condition. If the deal is too good to be true, (Are you really going to buy a 1969 Camaro in great condition for $5000?) then it could be scam. If you contact the seller and they insist on wiring a deposit, then you will know for sure it is a scam. Guaranteed you will never see the cash again!

2. Research Your Vehicle

Buying a classic car has become serious business. Classic cars for sale are now selling for what I paid for my first house. Would you buy a house with out having a house inspection? Probably not. The same goes with buying a muscle car for sale. Do your research. Get as much information as you can about the make, model, and year, and options of the car. The more educated you are about the car, the better you can negotiate if needed. And it also indicates to the seller that you know what you are talking about.

The internet makes it easy to do research. Join a forum that is focused on the type of car you are looking to buy. I know serious car collectors who will not buy a car unless they bring in an expert or guru to look at it first. If it is good enough for them, it is probably an idea you may want to consider. There nothing wrong about not knowing everything about a car. You definitely want to avoid paying for what looks like a highly desirable car only to find out that it is a clone.

Many people have saved themselves thousands and even hundreds of thousands of dollars just by paying an expert to inspect and document a car. If the car is extremely desirable and rare, the old adage of you can pay me now, or you can pay me later applies. Either hire an expert, or talk with someone you trust who can help you look at the car. Online car forums and clubs are great resources for this type of information.

3) Make Sure All Your Questions Get Answered

Do not be afraid to ask questions. Having clarity gives you the confidence to make a buying decision. This serves many purposes. Before you physically look at the car, contact the seller and ask the important questions.

Here are a number of key questions to ask the seller even if the details are not mentioned in the ad (This can double check the seller’s credibility that they really do know the details about their car). I find asking questions in categories is useful in organizing the information.

Engine, Drive Train, Options

* What is original to the car? (Engine, transmission, differential)
* Drive train specs (hp, engine size, rear axle ratio, transmission type)
* Options – A/C PS, PB, Vinyl roof, trim packages
* How does it run?

Body and Interior

* Interior color and condition?
* Body panels original, any accidents, frame damage, paint and body panel condition?
* Currently inspected and roadworthy or project restoration car?
* Mileage and any known mechanical problems?

Title and Price

* Does the car have a “clean” title?
* What is the asking price or at least a ballpark figure

How does it look?

* Can you get detailed digital pictures? If so, get A LOT so you can see every detail.
* Send to experts or post on a forum for opinions. The seller may think the car is all original, but may not know. An expert can spot the obvious.

Logistics

* Will they allow you to bring in an expert, or independent third party to
inspect and verify the car (If not, RUN from the deal. Do not walk)?
* Is there a place locally where you could arrange to put the car up on
a lift and do a visual and physical inspection?

This may sound like a lot of work, but it is fundamental for a solid transaction where you get exactly what you want.

The best piece of advice I can offer is to remember you are in control of the
transaction. If there is something that does not feel right about the car or the seller or anything related to the transaction, let it go. This includes being pressured by a seller to make a quick decision. If a deal is going to work, it needs to be natural and a win-win situation for both parties. There is normally something fishy going on, if a seller starts to hard close a deal. There is no use in trying to force a deal to work from either party.

Your Dream Car Finder makes finding, authenticating and delivering your dream car easy!

Tim Leary is a serial car nut and likes nothing better to help someone find their life-long classic dream car. http://www.yourdreamcarfinder.com

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Buying Your First Classic Car – by John Kelly

Many people dream of owning a classic car and fantasize of nipping out for a picnic in summer in a vintage Morris Minor, or ripping down country lanes in a vintage E-type Jag. But how easy is it to buy your first classic car? Sureterm Direct has helped thousands of customers insure their first classic and here’s their guide on how to approach making your first purchase.

What to look for

Buying a classic car is fairly straightforward, but you do need to take care in deciding exactly what type of vehicle best fits your needs. It’s no good buying a classic MGB if you want to use the vehicle for family outings (with kids and dogs) to the beach. Equally, a Ford Cortina 1600E might tick all the practicality boxes if you’re a singe bloke – but does it have the same effect on your street cred as a gleaming MK2 Jaguar? Probably not. Key practical considerations therefore need to be: Number of seats, number of doors, hard-top of soft-top, boot space – and even image!

Where to store it

How you store the car is also a major factor. Unfortunately, most ‘old’ cars simply don’t stand up to the weather like new ones, so you’ll need to keep your new classic in a garage or lock-up to maintain its appearance. If, like most people, your garage is rammed with anything BUT a car you’ll either need to clear it out or factor in the cost of renting a lock-up in your budget.

If the car needs some work doing on it, you’ll need space to move around the vehicle (especially under it). And if you’re thinking of keeping it outside, covered with a tarpaulin, think again! Damp rises, putting your car at risk – and how will you fancy doing your vital maintenance work in the pouring rain or driving snow?

Condition

The condition of you chosen classic car is a major consideration. If you have a background in engineering, welding or metalwork, a rusting old heap will hold no fear for you. Classic car magazines are full of adverts for a huge array of potential classic vehicles, and this should be your prime hunting ground. The key is to be realistic about what you can take on. A full restoration project is one thing – but it might be much more sensible to take on a project that’s been part completed, and just needs a few spares to get it back on the road.

Equally, you may find a ‘bargain’ for just a few hundred quid, that may well be worth £15k when complete. But spending hours trying to find irreplaceable body parts, or having to outsource specialist elements of the rebuilding project to experts, will soon make you wonder whether it was all worthwhile.

A sensible option when buying your first classic car is to spend a little more, but go for something that is presentable even if it takes a little longer to find the car of your dreams.

Where to find Classic Cars

The internet has made it easier then ever before to track down a classic car. Previously, buyers had to scour shop windows for likely purchases or buy specialist magazines, but now simply typing ‘Daimler Sovereign’ or ‘Austin Healey ‘ into Google is likely to bring up results. You’ll find specialist dealer sites, individuals using auction sites like e-bay, even portals aggregating all the classic car websites in one location.

Magazines are still useful, as they often provide added information by way of features about restoration. While the internet is great for finding vehicles quickly, printed media usually go into much more depth about the joys and pitfalls of classic car ownership.

Preparation before plunging

Having found a few potential purchases, now you need to do some homework to make sure you don’t end up with ‘a lemon’. While you’ll have some comeback if you buy from a dealer, classic cars are unlikely to be sold with a warranty and if you’re buying from a private individual you’ll have even less rights.

This is why you need to have a series of key questions to ask on the phone, or by email, with the seller to make sure you build up an accurate history of the car.

For example: Why are you selling the car? How long have you owned it? How often is it used? Does it come with any spares? Do you have any receipts for MOT’s or work that’s been done? Where has the work been done? How easy is it to find spare parts and can you recommend any local suppliers? You might want to know if the car runs on unleaded fuel, or if it can be easily converted, as leaded petrol is expensive and has limited availability in the UK.

Viewing

If you’ve progressed to a viewing, choose a time to see it during daylight. Avoid seeing it in the rain too, even the worst classic car has a certain appeal when it’s sat in the half light with the rain bouncing off it.

And think about taking along an expert. You could enlist the paid services of an AA or RAC inspector, but using internet forums you can usually find a classic car club member close to you who’d be delighted to give you the benefit of their experience (often for the price of a pint of real ale!).

Other MUST DO’s on your viewing:

• Look underneath.

• Check for signs of sagging, which might indicate suspension or chassis problems.

• See if the tyres match.

Look for signs of bodywork repairs, especially paint retouches (black and metallic colours are very difficult to match).

• Check the body all over for rust and rot, or cracking in the example of fiberglass-bodied cars, like Lotus.

• Lift up the carpets if you can, checking the floor pan and joint to the inner sill.

• Start from cold.

• Go for a test drive – look and listen for knocks, grinding, and smoke which may indicate oil escaping and burning.

• Look out for a soft or lazy clutch and check to see whether the car has a tendency to pull to the left or right.

Hopefully, this list of simple Do’s and Don’ts will help you take the first steps to buying a classic car. Trying to cover everything would take all day, but the key things to remember are: Take time to consider what’s best; Don’t be afraid to ask for advice; Ask plenty of questions; And be thorough with your inspection.

Follow those rules and your first foray into classic car ownership should be a joy, not a disaster.

John Kelly is the website editor for www.sureterm.com ? the UK?s leading specialist classic car insurers.

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